Garden Green Sweetness Gone Red

 

Pea Shoots by Emily Smith @emflash on Tumblr

You may be a red wine lover at heart, but come this time of year all of those wine savvy foodies are steering you toward crisp, fruity white wines and effervescent pricklers. Gastronomic journalists go crazy on the relevance of rosé and the perfect pairings with early summer garden selections.  Rather than saying these annual repetitions are not spot on, I wish to present an alternative wine and food pairing superlative: bold red wine with green vegetables, particularly the fruit, seed and leaf kind. Since the vendor stalls at the Falls Church Farmer’s Market are overflowing with zucchini, spinach, lettuce, peas and cucumbers, I challenge you to make the following three salads laced with green ingredients plucked right from the garden and pair them with a delicious red. In order to diversify the wine pairing selections, the three salads to follow represent different pleasure zones on your palate, namely fresh and vibrant, bitter and aromatic, and lastly, rich and savory. For simplicity’s sake, we will forego a sweet option and spare your waistline.

In wine jargon, the scents and flavors of the vegetable garden contain minimum quantities of aromatic substances, acids and sugars that define each veggie flavor in a unique way. These tastes allow for sensations of sweetness, bitterness, acidity, and/or aromaticness. Ultimately, the prevailing flavor characteristics point to which wine will best compliment a dish. First, let us look at a fresh and vibrant dish: snap peas and zucchini ribbons sprinkled with a touch of sea salt and extra virgin olive oil topped with shaved pecorino or parmesan reggiano cheese. One cannot deny a vervy Sauvignon Blanc from the banks of the Loire River would pair superbly with this delicacy; but, you can venture to try a young Beaujolais made from the Gamay grape in southern Burgundy, France, or even a fragrant Valpolicella from the Emilia-Romagna region southwest of Venice, Italy. Both wines have a reminiscent sweet tendency due to their fruity flavors of wild strawberries and cherries, lighter tannins (the bitter aspect of wine found in both coffee or tea), and smooth mouth-feel. The pecorino or parmesan cheese adds the perfect touch of saltiness to balance the flavors between the vegetables and the wine. Some readily available examples found locally would be Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages for $10.99 or Degani Valpolicella for $12.99.

Moving from the fresh, vibrant category that plays out the natural sugars and acidity of green vegetables, let us look at bitter and aromatic fare. Salad greens are both bitter and aromatic. A plethora of arugula and mesclun can be sourced at the farmer’s market or your very own garden, and these greens offer very peppery, aromatic flavors. Top an arugula spring mix with dried cranberries, vine-ripened strawberries, cucumbers and crumbled gorgonzola (dolce) cheese and whip up your own salad dressing with equal parts local honey, balsamic vinegar with a doubled portion of olive oil, splash of soy sauce and a pinch of salt. Zing! Match this tangy salad bowl with a California old vine Zinfandel that is peppery and full of red raspberry flavor, or go with a humble Côtes du Rhône from France that offers white pepper, orange rind, and plumy, dark fruit. Simple solution would be Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel found everywhere for $12.99, or Guigal Côtes du Rhône for $8.99.

Kick it up a notch with the last category and add richness with starch, butter, and a leafy green that lends sweet tendencies. Prepare a warm orzo salad with feta cheese, garlic, fresh spinach and lemon zest finished with a high quality balsamic vinaigrette. Cook ¾ cup orzo in chicken broth and add a teaspoon of red pepper flakes and thyme. Meanwhile, slowly melt 2 Tbsp. of real butter with ½ c. or more of feta crumbles. Sauté two cloves of garlic with a bundle of fresh spinach leaves, season with kosher salt and fresh cracked peppercorn and 1 Tbsp of lemon zest. Drain your pasta and combine all the ingredients. Plate and finish with a drizzling of high-quality balsamic vinaigrette. Voilà, the savoriness envelops your taste buds and cries out for a rich Spanish Rioja or even an Argentine Malbec sourced from  higher altitude vineyards. You cannot go wrong with LAN Crianza at $11.99 or Catena Zapata Malbec at $18.99.

Overall, it’s fun to play around with flavors and you do not have to be an expert to know what direction to go. Besides, when in doubt, there is probably an Apple app that exists to guide you, or the handy Google assistance at the tip of your fingertips. If these recipes intrigue you, come join us at Red, White & Bleu Wine Shop in Falls Church for our monthly book club where we explore how to drink and eat seasonally based on Dr. Vino’s book, A Year of Wine. Call the shop at 703.533.9463 (WINE) for more details.

Spring Rises to the tune of Velt-LEEN-er

Fog Rising by Emily Smith

This past week, I stepped outside before the dawn had fully sprung. A blanket of misty fog clung to the frosted ground; but, slowly the shroud of damp dew began rising, as if lifting her skirts to reveal the tender young grass springing, the yellow daffodil petals yawning, and the purple crocus peeking open for its first glimpse of fluxing seasons. I thought for a moment how everything springs forward, ascending upwards toward a new morning light. I inhaled deeply the scents of fresh morn, waiting to exhale my hopeful pondering: spring has sprung!

The dormant land awakens to new life; and with it a farmer’s bounty and a wine lover’s new adventure into a world painted verdant green. Spring green demands a color descriptor all of its own, somewhere on the verge of light green splashed with yellow highlights, conjuring nascent freshness. In the wine world, this verdant green translates into wines such as Gruner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, and possibly even Pinot Gris or Torrentes. In the food world, ramps, artichockes, fava beans, and asparagus take their place once again on the spring menu.

So if we marry the wine and food world, a story unfolds of delicious pairings waiting to molt the winter senses. The trick is not slipping into wines that are too green just yet. Now is not the time for spritzy Vinho Verdes stacked high at Whole Foods in the zenith of summer, or Pinot Grigios flavored with fresh squeezed lime and lemon. This tender time between seasons calls for a wine that dons plumes of finesse and voluptuous notes of ripe stone fruits. Sauvignon Blanc strikes us with stiletto heels of acidity, tart flavors of grapefruit, and that reminiscent sniff of freshly cut hay. Thus, Sauvignon Blanc proves not the perfect fit. Rather, the way to go this time of year is with a wine that harnesses split personalities. The appropriate bride for this marriage would be the stoic grape from Austria, Grüner Veltliner, pronounced with a ringing Austrian accent: Velt-LEEN-er.

The beauty of Grüner Veltliner is that it has sprung all over the grocery store shelves and at your local vintner shops. This bride flirts with numerous of styles. The Grüner grapes produce wines of light, dainty bodies to full-fledged, voluminous curves. A tell-tale sign when Grüner rests in your glass is the slight presence of dissolved CO2. Surprisingly, the sensation of spritz is not passed on to your palate. Rather, this wine can deliver sensations of a world renowned white burgundy (aka fancy Chardonnay from France) unfolding myriads of richness and texture that can age in bottle for a decade or more. Most importantly, for these tender times, Grüner pairs with meat, yes, red meat; in addition to fish and green vegetables.

So, the next time you visit the Farmer’s market or your local grocer, search for the ingredients to make an asparagus frittata and spring for a Grüner Veltliner. Or better yet, make a meal with heirloom beans and edamame. Check out this amazing farmer’s website, Rancho Gordo, who is preserving the genetic line of heritage beans in Napa Valley http://www.ranchogordo.com/html/v_beans.htm. Plant these babies in your spring garden and spare them from extinction. You will reap the benefits tenfold in flavor, texture, and freshness. Plus, the groo-vee way to experience beans is with a velvety Velt-LEEN-er. More food thoughts with Grüner could be unique deviled egg preparations for your spring brunch table—make ‘em with bacon, cheese, curry, or the tried-and-true paprika.

Some tip top suggestions to seek out (but, don’t let the Austrian wine label scare you off!):

Hirtzberger, Smaragd Honivogl

Knoll, Smaragd Schütt

F X Pichler, Smaragd Kellerberg

Prager, Smaragd Achleiten

Bründlmayer, Käferberg

Loimer, Spiegel Alte Reben

Steininger, Kamptal

Photo sourced from http://www.grampashoney.com/tag/cheese-pairings/

Honey, I Love You

Something sweet is coming this Valentine’s and it’s not wrapped in a heart-shaped box. Rather, its golden, slow-flowing and dripping of sweet sappiness—giving way to a moment of je ne sais quoi. Perhaps Winnie the Pooh describes it best: “Well," said Pooh, "what I like best -- " and then he had to stop and think. Because although Eating Honey was a very good thing to do, there was a moment just before you began to eat it which was better than when you were, but he didn't know what it was called.
-- Winnie the Pooh, The House at Pooh Corner

The Greek gods called it ambrosia, because it was the nectar to restore youth, heal the body of its ailments, and provide pure ecstasy upon its touch to the lips. With all this considered, I will court a new romance this Valentine’s with a new cheese class at Red, White & Bleu wine shop in Falls Church. I will pair a multitude of honeys with cheese and wine. Honey represents the new food fad sweeping the nation, but its beauty is recalled by Pooh bear. We will revel in the moment of anticipation right before actual indulgence—that fleeting second when your mouth salivates, your heart flutters, and your mind soars on surges of euphoria. This reaction reminds me a bit of love, but in reality, it’s simply HONEY—artisan and varietal—and true to your heart. If you’ve never had this “Winnie the Pooh” moment, I insist you must discover the magic between honey, wine, and cheese—truly a meal for the gods.

These days, honeys are just as sophisticated as wines; and like wines made from different grapes grown in varying climates and soils, honeys are uniquely distinct and express the facets of a bee’s life, mainly its diet. Two classifications exist in the honey world: varietal and artisan. To define it in lay terms, a varietal honey comes from a single source, like raspberry honey or clover honey, or sumac honey or tupelo honey. On the opposite spectrum, an artisan honey is a blend of honeys sourced from different plants depending on the year and climate at hand. In other words, artisan honeys are more a melding of Mother Nature’s discretion.

In Virginia alone, over 2,000 hobbyists and professionals alike keep bees. If you visit the Loudon Bee Association http://www.loudounbee.org/honey_varieties.html, you will see over 50 varietal honey sources listed. Each spoonful of honey displays its own taste based on the weather during the season, the moisture in the soil, pest pressure, and the craftsmanship of the beekeeper himself/herself. If you can’t make this Valentine’s event, I encourage you to experiment at home. Visit the local farmer’s market, buy a varietal or artisan honey, seek out different cheese styles, and drizzle some amber ambrosia on your cheese concoction, followed by a sip of wine….visions of Aphrodite may appear.

For your Valentine, may I suggest some delectable pairings? Slice a green apple into slivers, cut a wedge of aged parmesan cheese, and drizzle a tad of truffle honey over the two and sip a nice Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, or anything red from Tuscany, Italy—truly divine! Or purchase a blue cheese, hard, soft, gooey, you name-it, any blue will do, and top smatterings of a mild-flavored, lightly-colored honey, such as clover or lavender honey and pair with a sweet Riesling or white dessert wine from Sauternes, France or from or Virginia wineries. Don’t be afraid to add some red grapes with your blue cheese and honey bites and pair with a bold California Cabernet Sauvignon. I promise this odd combo will blow your mind!

This Valentine’s join us at Red, White & Blue wine shop Sunday, February 12^th for an instructional tasting of honey, cheese, and wine. Phone for details, and remember to say this year “Honey, I Love You!”

Christianna Sargent
Certified Sommelier
Advanced Certificate--
Wine & Spirits Education Trust
Association of Italian Sommeliers
French Wine Scholartalesofasommelier.blogspot.com



Valentine's Special: Cheese Boot Camp on Artisan Honeys!

Renewed Resolutions: a season in wine

 The New Year brings new ambitions, or rather renewed longings for resolutions forgotten. Either way, with holiday festivities quickly fading and Old Man Winter slumping on your stoop, I picture you clutching your wallet, foregoing those desserts, dining at home, and passing on the wine.  I must confess the first two weeks of January call for frugal routines, lean-mean exercise machines, and ultra-value sales at every retail venue imaginable. But when those initial two weeks leisurely pass and the temptations rise stealthily to the forefront of your mind, don’t deny yourself the pleasures of a healthy, satisfying diet and a reasonable entertainment budget. As the old adage goes, everything in moderation from fiscal fun, wines to splurge on, and bountiful dining habits homespun.

The trick to managing a healthy diet is consuming delicious wines (in moderation, of course) with heart-healthy, mouth-watering foods that don’t put a dent in your wallets. For instance, last night we went to deplete the pantry and fridge eliminating a trip from the store; after some thought, I whipped up some cauliflower mac-n-cheese with baked panko-breaded chicken breasts (recipes all sourced from the click of Google search). I uncorked a hearty little gem, Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel, that only set me back $10 (on-sale at Trader Joe’s!). Just the other night, we roasted a pork loin rubbed in whole-grain Dijon mustard, with some lemon juice sprits to liven it up (a recipe I plucked from Food and Wine magazine http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/alexandra-guarnaschellis-healthy-wine-pairings), and we paired it with Catena Malbec—another whopping delicious wine for $10 at your local grocer and around-the-corner wine shop! Just waiting for me in my basement is a $7 Chardonnay from Rex-Goliath that I can pair with asparagus and fettuccine tossed in a black-pepper chardonnay sauce.

You see, the beauty of eating healthy and taking that last bite right at the moment of being full (and not after two or three servings), is that you get to quaff down a wine that makes the meal ever-so-more fulfilling. Quenching the hunger cravings for sweets, heavy starch, and rich dishes proves challenging in this curl-up-beside-the-fire weather warming your toes. But resist the urge to fall victim to a case of the gimme gimmes. Mind control empowers everyone, and taking less from the wallet can only brighten your mood. Regularity and moderation in every habit you develop is the key to a heart-healthy lifestyle.  Eating fresh, eating less, more wholesome foods is a trend overtaking America. Drinking wine in moderation is now proven to increase longevity, reduce heart-attack risk, lower the risk of heart disease, and more. The point is, the time is right, the time is now—in a skeptical stock market with an election year ahead—to be fiscally responsible and eat right. Great wines for under $12 are out there! Seeking them out enhances the fun.

Due to the call for heart-healthy wines and the never-ending search for healthy food and wine pairings, I am launching a new tasting/eating series at Red, White & Bleu Gourmet Wine Shop in Falls Church this month, dubbed A Year in Wine. Every last Monday of the month, you can join a group of neighbors (all wine-lovers at heart) and learn how to eat and drink seasonally for a nominal fee of $25. We will present mouth-watering recipes that are friendly on your waist-line, easy to prepare in your home, and sourced from local, in-season ingredients. The wines to pair will be pocket or purse friendly (whatever your gender), and most importantly, boasting body and flavor profile appropriate to the weather and current month! This is a new form of book club, inspired by Dr. Vino’s A Year in Wine. Come learn how to make your homespun experience all the more heart healthy and fun!

Perfectly Stuffed: A White Wine for Turkey Day



http://www.thewinedoctor.com/weekend/feslesfbonnezeaux1998.shtml



Thanksgiving presents a truly American festive meal, laden with starch, spice, sugar, and the inevitable turkey roast—the ultimate tryptophan rush.  Splashes of burnt orange, crimson red, pecan brown, and pine green decorate the table and mirror the fall foliage outdoors. This time of year sets the mood for cozy afternoons indoors where warm, winter light floods bay windows, and a glimpse outside reveals a picturesque setting of falling, painted leaves. The brisk chill in the air only prepares the heart further for comfort food served up hot and the ever-charming glass of wine.

Thanksgiving will always be my favorite family holiday, and not just because of the food and the fact that no presents are needed; but, mainly because Thanksgiving is a true wine meal. The wine choices, though, are limitless and daunting at some levels, especially for folks who are just looking to adorn the table with some good tasting juice and leave the vino contemplation for the snobs. So rather than name off all the usual culprits that you see listed in every food magazine and wine editorial,  I’m going to say the opposite: stay away from Sauvignon Blanc, don’t bother with Cabernet Suavignon, skip the Italians, forget the Pinots, Malbecs and Zinfandels save for another day. Keep it simple this year, and explore the broad, stylistic wine selection from one small region, the Loire Valley. I promise you, it offers all the stuffing you need and more…

This majestic region sits farther up the Loire Valley just south of Paris and can be compared to other renowned places of beauty such as Venice, the Pyramids of Giza, and the Grand Canyon! Otherwise known as the Garden of France, this region between the cities of Angers and Tours stretches along a slow-churning river flanked by 300 chateaux, vineyards, and gardens, and was named a UNESCO world heritage site. This beautiful region is home to the Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc grapes.

The Chenin Blanc grape is what we shall focus on for the Thanksgiving meal. Yes, I say, even if it is just a white wine. Chenin is especially versatile and comes in many different forms from dry to sweet, sparkling, rosé, and decades-old (possibly longer-lived than Riesling). In other words, red-wine drinking fans, this will be the perfect wine to indulge in during the meal, and after turn to your reds as you sit back in Turkey Lovers Lane swooning in a food coma. This chameleon of a grape pairs so perfectly at the Thanksgiving feast, and sadly, it is so unfamiliar to Americans. It is the Old World’s answer to California Chardonnay, but on a much eloquent, refined scale. No big oak-bombs represent this category. Rather, the wine itself is highly extracted (like Chardonnay) and highly acidic (unlike Chardonnay), making it a great food pair. Plus, it is susceptible to the famous “noble rot” that glorifies the vineyards of Sauternes (the honey-like, age-worthy dessert wine from Bordeaux). You can spend as little or as much as you like on it, and Loire Chenin Blanc can even be found at your local grocer. While you are out label-hunting for Thanksgiving, have a quick chat with the wine retailer you frequent, ask for Vouvray, Savennieres, Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume, or Bonnezeaux (listed in relative order of increasing price). None of these are easy to pronounce, so Google it! Or rely on your handy Iphone or Droid apps to peruse the wine cellar jargon. Either way, it’s simple to go to the French section and spot one of these names, even if you just point and don’t utter.

You will not regret the aromatic qualities of a good Chenin Blanc: ripe Georgia peach topped with whipped cream, quince paste and succulent apricot, Fuji apple and Bosc pear. Top this with a touch of marzipan cake framed by toasted nuts, and you have a mouth-watering Chenin Blanc just full-bodied enough to match with your roasted fall vegetables, seasoned turkey, and sweet potato casserole.

Just so you won’t get lost in the French aisle, I will list a few of my favorites you can spot around town:

Bernard Fouquet Domaine des Aubuisiers Cuvée de Silex Vouvray, Loire France $18 (at Weygandt Wines in Cleveland Park)

Domaine de Baumard Savennières, Loire France $18 (Whole Foods and Red, White & Bleu)

Domaine Jo Pithon Coteaux du Layon, Loire France $22 (MacArthurs)

Domaine Jo Pithon Quarts de Chaume, Loire France $100 (MacArthurs)

Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux, Loire France $70 (Schneiders)

La Vida Dolce in the Fall

Crinkly, dry fall leaves crunching underfoot always put me in the mood for fall. The seasons hover on the verge of change, but the lazy days of summer have been ushered out with the earlier setting sun and the onset of school schedules, grueling rush hour traffic, and daily work lives. The offices are now packed, everyone has had their vacations. Congress hammers away on Obama’s Job Plan—the economy and deficit ceilings fill the docket with the dismal stock market setting the tone for a volatile season ahead. As the leaves cling to their last shades of green, the temperature drops and the air electrifies with hustle and bustle before the year-end holidays impact the frantic, fall pace. This is the perfect time to turn your mind to more serious wines, wines with more soul, both red and white, before the Northern Hemisphere descends upon its great slumber.

With the change of nature’s clock, dusk comes earlier and the dinner hour demands more cozy cuisine. The fruits of summer wane, while the Brussels sprouts bloom into abundance with a final surge of asparagus, green beans, squash and root vegetables. Kitchens turn out cuisine dominated by earthy undertones and gamy meats. Time to turn to full-bodied whites with luscious weights underscored by bosc pears, sour apples, blasts of acidity, and bitter-almond finishes.  Rieslings, Rhone whites and Oregon Pinot Noirs exhibit the autumnal flavors. But, nothing cries out fall season to me more than Italian wines and Italian cuisine. Mushroom ragout compiled of exotic shrooms plucked fresh from the farmer’s market screams for mascarpone polenta gnosh; or a nice fish stew with butternut squash entices the palate for some aromatic Italian whites collected from the coastal towns of the Marche, or mountain-entrenched Soaves and Gavis from the Veneto and Piedmont regions, respectively.

My love for everything Italian—my partiality to fall and brilliant fire reds painted with burnt orange colors—inspires me for a new educational series at Red, White and Bleu Wine Shop during the months of September, October, and November. Venture out on a gastronomic Tour of Italy—pictorially, mentally, and sensory.  Once a month, learn how to eat, drink, and live the Italian lifestyle inspired by Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch’s guide: Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy.  We explore a different geographic region each month and dive into one specific food and wine culture. Last month, we explored Lombardy and the fashion mecca of Milan. Participants indulged in Nebbiolos, Barberas, Chardonnay, and Sparkling wines indigenous to the area, while they stuffed their bellies with regional cheeses, charcuterie, and main fare from the streets of Milan.

October brings even more delectable intrigues from a quiet, seaside village in the Marche province, tucked behind cliffs of the Monte Cònero massif. Scores of crudo (raw seafood) and porchetta (stuffed suckling pig) work their way to the Marche dinner table. We intend to sample cave-aged, sheep’s milk Pecorinos and savory prosciuttos sourced from the mountain village of Carpegna. The wines will abound from the towns of Jesi, Matelica, Pesaro, and Urbino, like Rosso Piceno and Rosso Cònero crafted from the Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes.

Come delve into Italian goodness at Red, White and Bleu Sunday, October 16^th at 4:00pm, check out details online at the new website www.redwhiteandbleu.com. Live la vida dolce!