Tokaji: The Famed Wine of Hungary

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Photograph by National Geographic Channels

This is Budapest, a place has been home to the Celtics, the Romans and the Ottomans. Although it's 

seen the ravages of war and communism, the drinking culture hasn't withered at all.

Tonight on Chug, Zane makes his final stop in Budapest, Hungary. On this adventure, he chugs more high-octane beers and local spirits than any episode yet. Between local tripel and dubbel brews, Hungary’s version of moonshine, and cocktails in refurbished warzone sectors of the city, he somehow passes up the world’s first made sweet wine, Tokaji. A phenomenon of Mother Nature with aging potential greater than 200 years, Tokaji wine has been coveted by the likes of King Louis XIV, Bram Stoker, Thomas Jefferson, and Catherine the Great to name a humble few. This nectar of the Gods is considered among wine lovers to be the “Wine of Kings, and The King of Wines.” Tokaj has long been Hungary’s most respected and famous region so esteemed by the people, it is lauded in the Hungarian national anthem, “Tokaj szölövesszein nektárt csepegtettél.” Translation:  thank you God for dripping sweet nectar into the vineyards of Tokaj!

Tokaj Wine Region

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

Cradled by the protective Carpathian Mountains to the north and east, Tokaj rests in the northeast corner of Hungary on the borders of Slovakia and Romania. Tokaj produces a range of wines, from bone-dry through late-harvest, to the extraordinary Esszencia, as well as the famous Tokaji Aszù at 3, 4, 5, or 6 Puttonyos. Despite the diversity of wine styles, the region is heralded for its nectar-like, botrytized Tokaji aszú wines (note the -i on the end). The word Tokaj denotes the place, wheras Tokaji denotes the wine itself. The ham-shaped region spans 25 miles and is comparable in size to France’s famous Cote d’Or wine region in Burgundy. This tiny span of land specializes in three grapes: Furmint, Harslevelu, and Muscat Blanc (Sarga Muskotály).

Tokaji Wine Styles 

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

The Aszú (botrytized) wines for which Tokaj is most known are predominately made from Furmint grapes affected by a type of symbiotic fungus, Botrytis cinerea. This beneficial mold grows in very particular conditions that are analogous to the “perfect storm” scenario when cold and hot air collide. When the mold does grow in a controlled manner, it is referred to as the noble rot. In this instance, the mold dehydrates the grapes of their water content, thereby increasing sugar and flavor levels in the grapes. Even though it may seem odd in practice to think a mold is welcomed in a vineyard, similar to how people view the pesky appearance of white and green fuzz on their bread loaves, the mold facilitates the creation of spectacular wines with intense raisin flavors and honeysuckle aromas. The concentration of aszú is indicated in puttonyos. A puttonyo is a large basket used for harvesting grapes. The number of puttonyos of aszú grapes added to a 136-liter barrel of base wine was a traditional measure of sweetness levels back in the day.

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

The non-aszú Tokaji wines receive less attention than their sweeter counterparts, since they are not made with 100% pure aszú berries. These wines are referred to as szamorodni wines, literally meaning “as it was grown.” These wines showcase various levels of sweetness, most comparable to late harvest dessert wines, since they do contain a small percentage of aszú berries. Dry Tokaji wines have become more popular over the past 100 years and are made purely from ripened grapes not affected by the mold.

The Magic of Tokaj

The true glory of the region lies in the Aszú wines themselves and their magical tastes and smells. To sip a true Aszú Tokaji is to taste a piece of heaven. To understand the magic, one has to understand the unique geography of Tokaj and the indigenous grape, Furmint. Once past the beautiful suburbs of Budapest headed east, the Great Hungarian Plain stretches forward in a flat, almost featureless landscape full of sunflowers and corn crops. The town of Tokaji sits above the plain on top of an ancient volcanic cone situated in the undulating foothills of the majestic Carpathians Mountains—home to the sinister historical figure, Count Dracula. In Tokaji, the confluence of two rivers, the Bodrog and the Hernàd, meet and are responsible for forming the moist fogs that blanket the Tokaj vineyards in the late Indian summers characteristic of this area. The indigenous grape, Furmint, is perfect for the region by chance, evolution, or divine providence, who knows which? Either way, the grape begins maturing with thick skin that turns to thinner consistency as it ripens, allowing for the sun to evaporate more water content, making for higher sugar levels. Furthermore, the Furmint grape grows a second skin, unlike other grapes, later in the growing season allowing for longer hang times on the vine into October and late November. This is the crucial point in the season when the fogs start appearing and in turn usher in the noble rot.

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

This wine of legend has been in the making since the 1500s. Although war and political upheaval has slowed the production of these rare wines, the collapse of the communist regimes in 1990 allowed for the influx of money and winegrowers from around the world who are rallying around the cause of restoring the wineries to their former glory between the 18th and 19th centuries. If you can hunt a bottle down, it’s well worth the effort. One thing is certain, Zane could easily throw back a Tokaji wine with a smile and rush of ecstasy, versus a grimace and a belch backed by ethanol fumes!

ProTip: When visiting the Tokaj region, seek out a true Eszencia wine. This anomaly of nature represents a wine above 6 puttonyos in sweetness. Technically, these are not even true wines because of their enormous sugar concentrations. Eszencia is the juice of aszú berries that drips out of the fermentation vats where the aszú berries are stored. Drip by drip, the nectar is collected in small demi-john bottles and the wine takes close to four years to ferment. But once made, they will age for more than two centuries. Now that’s a Spiler wine!

Frascati: The Drink of Rome

Posted by Christianna Sargent on December 22, 2014 Edit

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Photograph by National Geographic Channels

Danielle shares with Zane the perfect Roman coffee drink, espresso with a twist of italian anise

 liquor or Sambuca.

Zane Lamprey chugs to Rome tonight, one of the world’s greatest cities for over two thousand years. As they say, “When in Rome, drink like the Romans.” Italy is a hotbed for fabulous wine production, and wine is the most imbibed cultural beverage. Thus, it’s worth taking a look at the most synonymous wine to Rome: Frascati. Romans refer to Frascati as the Golden Wine in reference to its color and its value. The grapes that make Frascati are grown in close proximity to the city, in the province of Lazio. The bustling metropolis stands in stark contrast to the surrounding pastoral scenes of Lazio, made up of farmland, mountain villages, and beachfronts that await those who venture outside of Roma. Compared to Italy’s more famous wine provinces, such as Piedmont and Tuscany, Lazio is not very well known for the simple reason that Rome consumes most of the Latium wine production, leaving little for the outside world.

Lazio: The Province to Rome

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

Rome sits in the province of Lazio. The founding of Rome is mixed in legend and archaeological truths. Legend has it that Aeneas escaped the fall of Troy, sailed around the Apennine Peninsula, and landed in modern-day Lazio. Here, he bore a line of descendants that would eventually lead to Romulus and Remus. These two brothers decided to found the city of Rome on April 23, 753 BC, but after an argument, Romulus killed Remus. The more likely version is the city grew from settlements on the Palatine Hill that sprung up because the area at the base of the hill was most suited for pasture. The region of Lazio is so-named because the original inhabitants of the land were a group of people who called themselves the “Latini.” Sound familiar?

Frascati: The Wine of Rome

Steeped in history and legend, Frascati production dates back to the 5th century B.C. As the most mentioned wine in Italian literature, Frascati was the preferred drink of Ancient Rome as it passed over the lips of Cleopatra and Julius Ceasar on many occasions, later becoming the wine for Popes and the darling to Renaissance poets and artists. Frascati is made from a number of grapes: Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio, Grechetto, Bombino Bianco, and Trebbiano. Each grape lends specific nuances, aromas, and flavors to the final blend. The wine itself comes in three forms: dry, sweet, or sparkling–the most popular being dry.

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

The grapes of Frascati can craft stunning, age-worthy wines, but most Romans associate it with serviceable white wine fit to serve in cafés throughout the Eternal City. The usual suspect is subtle in taste, flowery on the nose with a hint of citrus fruits on the palate, lending to a prickly or tart mouth feel–not too far off in flavor from the ubiquitous Italian white wine, Pinot Grigio. Despite Frascati’s reputation as a mediocre wine best consumed in café settings, modern day winemakers are embracing its potential through the use of more new techniques in the winery and the vineyards.

Interestingly enough, one of the hottest new producers on the Frascati scene, Piero Constantini, owns Rome’s most famous wine shop, Enoteca Constantini–a shop featured in Zane’s journey this evening. Constantini is one of the revolutionaries turning Frascati into a note-worthy white wine at his vineyard in Lazio, Villa Simone.

The wines themselves are best sipped on a hot summer evening paired with lighter pasta dishes and a medley of fish dishes. So when in Rome, drink like the Romans, or simply go seek out a bottle of Frascati at your local wine shop and see if it transports you to the Eternal City.

Photograph by National Geographic Channels

ProTip: Coming soon in late February, Rome’s most venerated vegetable, carciofo romanesco, otherwise known as the artichoke. The best preparation of this veggie is “alla giudia.” This “Jewish style” artichoke is deep fried whole until its outer leaves are crispy and light and the heart is sweet and delicate. Shave a bit of Pecorino cheese on top, followed by a sip of Frascati. Ecco! A wine and food pairing fit for Romans.

Don’t miss Chug: Rome tonight at 7:30/6:30c!

Thirsty for Adventure [And Cocktails]? New Series “Chug” Premieres Tonight!

Posted on National Geographic's TV Blogs

Rum company owner, world traveler, and drink aficionado, Zane Lamprey, travels the globe to explore drinking customs and cultures by tossing back a few with the locals in the all-new series Chug. As he explores the libations of the region, Zane visits watering holes, breweries, distilleries, and wineries. In every episode, he journeys by train to the outskirts of the big cities, chugging off to get a taste of local spirits.

Tonight on the series premiere of Chug: Kuala Lumpur, Zane sets off for Malaysia to experience local libations and soak up soul vibes with interesting people.

Photograph by Inzane Entertainment/ Melissa Schilling

Malaysia’s Local Drinks: The Toddy & The Lancow

There's a raw beauty inherit in the jungle forests, and Zane quickly realizes he’s in for an experience you can’t get in the States. Zane’s drinking guide, Deep, explains Malaysia’s drinking culture is relatively new. Considered a way station for cultural influences from surrounding countries, which don’t all embrace drinking, Malaysia's drinking culture is growing and evolving. In the village of Banting, Zane finds a true native gem--a drink locals have dubbed the Toddy, named for the Toddy Palm tree from which it’s derived.

Its harvesting method, Zane discovers, is just as unique as its taste. The locals hang pots on the palm tree’s fruit stalks in order to collect the nectar. It’s basically sweet, sugary water until the wild yeast that’s floating in the air and in the pots converts the sugar into alcohol… and Voilà. Fermentation occurs right in the pot as it hangs on the tree. Zane reveals the spirit tastes like cereal and bugs, which happen to be floating around getting their buzz on too!

The drink mongers stop at a local Toddy shop that sells a more refined version of the beverage that’s filtered and chilled. The Toddy now tastes more like a bready version of carbonated coconut water with a reminiscent flavor of cereal and milk. It’s kind of like a beer with yeasty nuances and 5-6 % alcohol content. Zane learns a new word for “Cheers” here in Banting, “Ban Thai!” It translates to “Whack,” and could be for the local tradition of dropping a shot of Toddy into a Guinness. Sound familiar? It’s like an Irish car bomb, but with a Malaysian flair--whack!

Photograph by Inzane Entertainment/ Melissa Schilling

The next stop for Zane is the Batu caves about twenty minutes outside K-L, which houses a Hindu shrine teeming with Macaques monkeys. Here, Zane discovers a Malaysian version of moonshine crafted by an almost forgotten people, the Ibans, who migrated from the Indonesia region to settle on the island of Borneo in western Malaysia. Locals today try to preserve the drinking tradition of the Ibans with the Lancow, named for the farm hut in which the illegal moonshine was crafted in order to hide their 35% ABV concoction from the authorities.

Cocktail Roundup: Popular Cocktails of Southeast Asia

Southeast Asia offers a number of unique libations known to backpackers and tourists alike. The notorious “Bucket” cocktail, most notably consumed in The Bucket Bar at the last stop on the river tubing run in Vang Vieng in Laos, or on the gorgeous white sand beaches of Koh Phi Phi in Thailand, is nothing but a child’s beach toy bucket chocked full of Sangsom, Mekong whiskey, vodka or gin, mixed with a version of Red Bull (dubbed M150), and a dash of fruit juice.

Vietnam boasts their beloved brew, Bia Hoi, and it’s a must try for thrifty travelers who dig paying only 50 cents for a liter of beer.

Found in Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, Cobra & Scorpion Whiskey tops the libation charts as an aphrodisiac and cure-all-ailments-cocktail for only the most daring. Peppery and spicy in flavor, this whiskey instilled with either a real scorpion or cobra makes for what some might call a revolting drink, but certainly a fabulous souvenir!

Homemade Lao-Lao whiskey puts hair on the chest and is a favorite found in Laos.

Pro Tip: All hangovers can be treated with the delicious fruit shakes found in street stalls all throughout Southeast Asia. But, nothing beats the esoteric and unknown factor that Zane discovers in the jungles of Malaysia.

Don't miss the series premiere of Chug: Kuala Lumpur Monday at 10:30/9:30c for more escapades into the unknown libations of Malaysia.

Yum Seng!